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سرحدLahore · 1954
A maroon sharara worked in silver and gold, held against a carved sandstone wall of Mughal arches
سرحدUrdu — border, frontier, the line between
Collection I · 2026Lahore · Since 1954

SARHAD

The border is not between two places. It is between two centuries.

The house — scroll
01The archiveذخیرہ

Nothing here is new.

Sarhad has worked out of one building in Lahore since 1954, on frames that have not changed. What comes out each season is drawn from what is already in the room — patterns come off the shelf, get altered, and go back.

These are the house's own photographs of it: shows, fittings, a stairwell at one in the morning. None of it was styled and most was never meant to be kept.

Three saris in jade, black velvet and rose, gold-bordered, under a scalloped arch

01

نمائشShow, 2001
Three looks in teal, black velvet and maroon, photographed on flash against a dark arch

02

نمائشShow, 1998
A gold and ivory piece on a dark staircase, turning back toward the camera

03

زینہStairwell, undated
A teal lehenga and ivory dupatta on a marble stair, direct flash

04

زینہStairwell
02The clothکپڑا

Collection I.

Nine pieces, shot by lamplight over eight months. Gold thread needs a moving flame to do what it does, so nothing here was lit any other way.

An ivory kurta and drape with a gold vine placket, beside marigold garlands and a brass pot

I

ریشمResham on silk crêpe

Ivory, drawn tight at the waist and left to fall. The gold runs one line from collar to hem — a single placket, eleven days on the frame, nothing else anywhere on the piece.

A maroon lehenga and open jacket worked in gold leaf-and-vine zardozi

II

زردوزیZardozi on raw silk

The vine climbs the skirt in six panels and stops short of the hem, so the eye finishes the line itself. Two karigars worked opposite sides of one frame for five weeks to keep the halves matched.

An oxblood velvet lehenga with a scalloped gold border, on black marble under a gold sconce

III

دبکاDabka on silk velvet

Velvet takes coiled wire better than any other ground because it holds the stitch without puckering. The border is one continuous scallop — begun at the left seam and closed at the same seam nine days later.

A sage peplum and sharara scattered with gold buti work, by candlelight

IV

ریشمResham buti

Sage is the hardest ground in the collection to light. Each buti is worked separately and placed by eye rather than to a grid, which is why the scatter reads as falling rather than as printed.

Two looks in gold and pearl in a panelled hall, one close at frame right, one far across a checkerboard floor

V

زردوزیZardozi and pearl

Pearl over gold, which is the house's oldest combination and the slowest — every pearl is knotted rather than glued, so the piece survives being sat down in.

A blush lehenga worked in raised rose appliqué with a gold belt and pearl tassel

VI

ریشمRaised rose

Every rose is built up in floss silk and wired from behind so it stands off the cloth. The belt is the only hard element; everything above and below it is deliberately soft.

An indigo velvet lehenga and sheer cape worked in silver floral sprigs

VII

دبکاDabka on velvet

Silver on indigo is the hardest pairing in the house — the wire disappears if the ground is a shade too light. The cape is sheer so the work reads twice, once through it and once beside it.

A pale rose lehenga in dense white chikan floral work with a gold waistband

VIII

چکنChikan and resham

White on rose, worked so densely the ground barely shows. The quietest piece in the collection and the one that takes longest: there is no motif to hide behind, so every stitch is on show.

The scalloped hem of an ivory georgette dupatta worked in gold leaves, on stone

IX

ریشمResham on georgette

The last nine inches of a dupatta. Every leaf is stitched through both faces of the georgette, which is why the hem holds its scallop instead of collapsing the moment it moves.

03The frameاڈا

This is the whole claim.

Two hands, a hooked ari needle, and gold laid onto velvet stretched taut on an adda. Everything else on this page is a consequence of this photograph.

Two hands couching gold thread onto oxblood velvet stretched on a wooden karigar's frame
اڈاThe adda — Lahore
زردوزیZardozi
Metal-wound thread, couched by hand
دبکاDabka
Coiled wire, laid in relief
ریشمResham
Floss silk, satin and stem stitch
شیشہShisha
Mirror, caught under a worked ring

340hrs

The longest single panel in the collection

9hands

Karigars on one frame at a time

0prints

Nothing in the collection is printed

نقشہThe naqsha — pricked, then dusted through
04The fittingناپ

What you are agreeing to.

Nothing is stocked and nothing is sized. Each piece is cut to the wearer and worked to order, and the embroidery alone runs eight to fourteen weeks — longer for a bridal panel. Read this before you write; it is most of the commission.

کارخانہAtelier
Lahore
مدتLead time
8–14 weeks
ناپFittings
Three, minimum
سلائیSizing
Cut to measure — no size chart
ترسیلShipping
Worldwide, insured